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Home > Community > Fashion Tuesday May 22, 2012

Sindhi Ajrak : An Ancient Art Form by Saima Shah

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December 1st, 2010

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NZAwan
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Join Date: Nov 26th, 2010
Location: Chakwal
Posts: 12
The Ajrak is an essential part of the apparel of a Sindhi person. Men use it as a turban, a cummerbund and wound it around the shoulders. Women use it as a dupatta and chaddar, as a shawl and sometimes as a makeshift swing for children. The Ajrak is usually about 2.5-3meters. It is patterned in intense jewel like colors. The dominant colors are rich crimson and a deep indigo. A little bit of white and black is also used to give definition to the geometric patterns.
The history of the Ajrak can be traced from the times of the ancient civilizations of the Indus Valley. These civilizations have been thought to exist at around 2500 BC-1500 BC. A bust of the King Priest excavated at Moenjodaro shows a shawl draped around his shoulders. It is decorated with a trefoil pattern (like a three leafed clover) interspersed with small circles, the interiors of which are filled with a red pigment. The same trefoil pattern has been discovered in Mesopotamia. Also on the royal couch of Tutankhamen (of the ancient Pharaohs). The trefoil is a symbol of three sun-disks fused together to represent the unity of the gods of the Sun, water and earth. It is thought that the trefoil pattern survives as the cloud pattern in the modern Ajrak.
The authentic Ajrak is printed on both sides by a method of printing called resist printing. The printing is done by hand with hand carved wooden blocks. Several different blocks are used to give the characteristic repeated patterning. Making the blocks is a considerable challenge since the pattern has to synchronize perfectly with the whole of the Ajrak as well as cover various areas against dye.
The block maker uses the compass and the ruler for precision in making the graphs for the patterns. The balance or the mizan has to be perfect for the final result. Various tools are used for carving the blocks (pors) There are very few poregars left in Sindh and it is a highly specialized craft. The blocks are thrown into the river when the craftsmen are done with a pattern. Block making is a family craft and passed down from generation to generation.
The process by which the Ajrak is made is considered intuitive to the Ajrak makers. It is part of the existence of the craftsman and therefore not a 'job' but a form of life.


 
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